
Helen Chock, the owner and matriarch of Helena’s Hawaiian Foods, died last week Friday. The photo above comes from her obituary in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin. She would have been 90 years old on July 27th.
Her restaurant is more than 60 years old. I was a relative newcomer, becoming a “regular” only in 1994, at the original restaurant on North King Street, near Farrington High School. At the time, I was working at KHNR/CNN Radio, and once I started coming in on a regular basis, Helen and the waitresses would try to greet me by name. Except they couldn’t remember my name, but they knew where I worked. So they called me “CNN” for a few years.
Helena’s is a place where you don’t go for the ambience; you go for the food. I would go once every week or two for the pipikaula; the lau lau; the lomi salmon with raw fish and limu; the squid lu`au; the fried butterfish collar; the Maui onions and the haupia that came with every meal. There was a spell last year when I wasn’t able to drop in for a few months. When I returned, Helen greeted me from behind the cash register and we talked story for a little while. When I was done eating and got up to pay my bill, she looked at my check, put it on the spindle, and said simply, “Next time,” without letting me pay. That was the only time she did that, but she knew I’d be back. And frequently. And I was.
The last time I saw her was probably May, just before she was diagnosed with cancer. The last time I was there was last week Thursday, the day before Helen died. Her daughter, Elaine Katsuyoshi, told me she was sleeping a lot in the hospital, and sometimes wasn’t aware of what was going on. But there was a sense that the end was near, that her time was done, she was ready to go and her restaurant was in good hands. And it is: her grandson, Craig Katsuyoshi, has been doing the cooking, and will continue to run Helena’s.
Condolences to her family, especially to Elaine, Craig, and his sister Charlaine. A celebration of Helen’s life will be held Saturday, July 21 at Nu`uanu Memorial Park and Mortuary, with visitation from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m., followed by services.
Meantime, the restaurant will reopen Tuesday, July 17.

